Back in the day...
Stand first: The four corners of London might have their own distinctive codes of style - but how would these fashionistas have looked over the last 50 years? Lizzie Evans uncovers the trends from a by-gone era.
Coco Chanel once said “Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion has to do with the ideas, the way we live, what is happening…”. And this couldn’t be proven better than in London.
Since the end of the Second World War London has been central to the hottest trends around, and has transformed fashion as we know it. With its constant desire for individuality, and the unique and distinctive look pumped into its streets, London is now referred to as the ‘epicentre for creativity’ in the fashion world.
Fashion can be influenced by many things. From art to historical periods, social class to popular culture. But what has influenced each corner of the London scene? And what makes them so distinct?
South London
In 1948, The Empire Windrush at Tilbury, a carrier ship that brought nearly 500 skilled workmen from the Caribbean, settled in Lambeth. This created the centre of London’s African Caribbean community in Brixton today. The workmen dressed smartly. They were often pictured in suits and tailored coats, mostly wearing hats, otherwise they would feel underdressed.
Their distinctive look influenced the Rude Boy tribe in the 1950’s. The first Rude Boys were associated with the poorer sections of Kingston, Jamaica. They dressed in the latest fashions, wearing sharp suits, thin ties, and Trilby hats; inspired by American gangster movies.
Throughout the years Rude Boy fashion has changed dramatically. Sportswear has become a catalyst for changing fashions, particularly in South London. The tracksuits use has transformed from functional exercise wear into a stylish, everyday ensemble.
South London wear is also prominently influenced by urban music, with many garage and grime artists hailing from the South. Some of these artists are realizing the link between music and fashion and launching their own clothing label. South London rapper Giggs sells his own merchandise in Peckham, called SN1 (Spare No 1). SN1 wear includes t-shirts, jackets and caps quoting lines from his songs such as ‘Talking the Hardest’ and ‘Ard Bodied’.
South London is forever being associated with gang culture, and is said to occupy some of London’s most notorious gangs. Gangs often wear colors of allegiance, influenced by famous LA gangs, Crips and Bloods. It has noticeably impacted the streets of South London, where color coordination is now seen throughout.
In the 80’s, trainers became a fashion statement rather than just a sports shoe, even now trainers are still a popular fashion staple in South London. Foot Locker brought out a series of trainers representing both the North and South of London. This further bridged the divide between the two areas, where there has always been rivalry.
North London
Up until the late 1800s, Camden Town, in North London, was considered “unfashionable”. Now, a hub for various individuals, from Goths to Emos, it is well known for its number of internationally renowned markets and music venues. Camden Town is now strongly associated with alternative culture. The markets are centre to the alternative fashion scene, being popular with young people searching for ’alternative’ clothing.
The Punk look is particularly popular in Camden Town. In 1972 Willie Walters opened ‘Swanky Modes’ in Camden Market, which later became a well known meeting place for those looking for Punk clothing. It was one of the first of its kind and lead to a huge surge in similar outlets opening in London.
Punks aim was to outrage others with their highly theatrical use of clothing. Their look consisted of drainpipe jeans, plaid/tartan trousers, leather jackets and Doc Martins. Ripped clothing was held together by safety pins. Some cut their hair into Mohawks and styled it into spikes. Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood pioneered the punk movement. She marked a new mood in fashion and reflected the more anti-establishment and rebellious youth cults of London.
These cults are still evident in the streets of Camden Town today, along with some lesser known ones, such as the Lolita fashion cult, that has begun to primarily dominate the street of Camden Town in recent years.
Lolita fashion is influenced by Victorian clothing and is made up of multiple sub styles, the most popular being Punk Lolita, influenced by Camden market itself and originating from Japan. It reflects elements of Punk, with its tattered fabric, safety pins and chains. Males are known to take up Punk Lolita fashion, as well as Oji, meaning prince, the male version of Lolita fashion.
Camden is also strongly influenced by the Nu-rave scene, due to the popularity of European rave chain, Cyberdog, originally a small market stall in the early 1990’s. Along with Cyberdog, Europe has had a stronger influence on London with its style and culture being evident throughout the West of London.
West London
West London is an extremely affluent area, with Kensington and Chelsea accommodating the largest number of high-earners of any local government district in the country.
It is home to some of London’s most expensive and upmarket streets, including Kings Road, one of the most fashionable shopping hotspots in London, traditionally associated with 1960’s style. It also accommodates some of the most expensive department stores - including Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
Global brands and labels have begun to play an important part in West London fashion since 2005, as the streets saw rows of European designer outlets begin to open. Stores such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton have become the non-British alternative for luxurious and distinct pieces.
West London is also known for its independent fashion boutiques, the most famous one being Browns - which is credited for discovering big names such as John Galliano, and the late Alexander McQueen.
Sienna Miller’s fashion label Twenty8Twelve is often sold in one of London’s other major independent boutiques, Matches. Her clothes reflect much of the West London‘s fashion perfectly. Living in West London herself, the ‘Boho Chic' look she channels into her clothes is reflective of Barbara Hulanicki’s’s Biba outlet in the 60‘s.
Biba sold Romantic flowing clothes, by mail order, in muddy colors that were used to sum up the dark mood of the time. Biba was best known for their smocks, which is still a very popular fashion item today. Many of the best known fashion outlets we now know have originated from the streets of West London; this is due to the wealth and stability of its occupants. ¬¬¬
East London
In contrast to West London‘s wealthy backdrop, East London has one of the highest concentrations of council housing, containing some of the poorest areas in London. Fashions alliance with youth however, has helped to transform the seemingly dowdy area into a trendy place to be in recent years.
As the income increased after the war, the Teddy Boy trend arose in the 1950s. They were inspired by the styles of the Edwardian period, famous for their drainpipe trousers, brightly colored socks, brogues and quiffs. They paved the way for making male interest in fashion socially acceptable. Before, it was mostly associated with the underground homosexual subculture and their flamboyant dressing style. Teddy girls wore straw hats, espadrilles and hobble skirts.
Another tribe that originated in East London in the late 1950’s was the Mods. Short for Modernist, they were inspired by Italian and French fashion which included tailor-made suits, thin ties, cashmere v-necks and winkle pickers. They used eye shadow and lipstick to enhance their appearance. In contrast, female Mods dressed androgynously, and wore short haircuts, men’s trousers or shirts, flat shoes and little makeup. These fashions are all predominant today.
A subculture developed from the Mods in the 80’s, known as the skinheads began to take basic elements of Mod fashion such as Fred Perry shirts and Levi jeans, and mix them with working class accessories such as braces and Doc Martens.
East London still channels many of these looks; this includes the Teddy Girls ‘boyfriend’ look still being increasingly popular in the area with the likes of Alexa Chung and Kate Moss. This is due to the overriding popularity of vintage and second-hand clothes stores and markets in the area.
The styles that parade each corner of London have always derived from particular tribes and movements that are important to their area. It is the people’s passion to be unique and individual that brings us the variety that we see on our streets today. And because of this, London will always have a distinct look of its
own, no matter which corner you visit.
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ReplyDeleteArgh! Typo! Annoying! Thanks for pointing that out!
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